Monday, 1 October 2018

Introduction

The Lycian Way is a 430km* walk in southern Turkey from Fethiye to Geyikbayiri  (near Antalya) or the reverse. It follows an approximately semi-circular curve along the Mediterranean coastline. It is well documented online (please see the Useful Links section). The definitive guidebook is the one by Kate Clow# who devised the walk about 17 years ago. 

The trail is quite varied, rising from sea level to over 1800m on paths ranging from broad streets to narrow rocky mountain tracks. There is also a delightful mix of Ancient Greek Ruins and modern day Turkish rural living and hospitality. It is a good place if you like goats or tortoises. And of course everyone rightly raves about the food. It is worth going deliberately slowly for that reason alone.

The trail is well way marked (with some variations in quality) and there are signposts at key points. It supports a wide variety of styles of hiking and accommodation, though camping is necessary in the mountain sections. I wild camped using only two hostels and one campsite (Kalkan, Kaş and Çırali). But weather and circumstances will dictate how this works out for each individual. I had the luxury of no overall timetable and no daily schedule.

This blog is primarily intended to be a concise resource for people who are thinking about doing it as a single hike. For those who may need a little inspiration, I have added a few photos. 

Some parts of this blog were initially written while preparing for the hike. I have since updated it with the benefit of experience. 

* As measured by the track I followed from Fethiye to Geyikbayırı. This followed the mountain sections from Demre to Finike and from Çirali to Hisarçandir. But it doesn’t include the extra loop around Patara from Delikkemer.

I had the considerable pleasure to meet Kate in Antalya after the walk. She is full of knowledge and enthusiasm.

Sunday, 16 September 2018

Monday, 10 September 2018

Photos from the Trail

For those of you who prefer to hike into the unknown, you might want to skip these photos. For others who would like to know a bit more about the scenery and ambiance before making a decision, then this is for you. I have divided them into three sections of which this is the first chronologically.

The Trail
Part I - Fethiye to Kalkan
Part II - Kalkan to Demre
Part III - Demre to Geyikbayiri

Other subjects
Photos - Campsites
Photos - Flowers
Photos - Petra

Bear in mind that all these photos were taken between mid-March and mid-April. It might look somewhat different in autumn after the summer heat, or indeed in winter when some higher sections could be under snow.

Sunday, 9 September 2018

Photos from the Trail - Part I

Fethiye to Kalkan

The old starting gate which you now reach half way through day 2
Climbing out of Fethiye on the first afternoon
The ghost village
The first of many coastal views
One of many lovely potential camping spots
Olive trees are a big feature of the landscape
Beautiful Kabak beach was unfortunately too rough for swimming
Rain was quite rare, but here was a thunderstorm approaching
The view from Catchy Camping where I stopped for a cup of tea
The first five days were quite rocky
Generally speaking waymarking was perfectly adequate
They really wanted to make sure you turned right here!
High up after a climb the sea looks especially tempting
The rocky terrain is very much goat country
Quite a bit of the farmed land is terraced
Lunch in Gey at a small shop featured pickled olive leaves
Carpets of daisies
Wildflowers were in abundance
The sort of sign a hungry trekker likes to see
First view of snow covered mountains
The first five days are especially rocky with lots of up and down
Tortoises are a common sight on the trail
The castle walls near Patara beach
 Wonderful stone work seen in the detail of the castle walls
Letoon lies directly beside the trail
The beautiful amphitheatre at Xanthos
Tortoise traffic jam
There is a lengthy but delightful stretch along a roman aqueduct
There are views over a veritable sea of greenhouses for tomato production
The astonishing aqueduct at Delikkemer
Each section of "pipework" is carved out of solid stone
The hugely impressive wall supporting the "water pipe"

Saturday, 8 September 2018

Photos from the Trail - Part II

Kalkan to Demre

Too early in the season for any human residents in this village
This cistern came with a bucket and rope, but not all do
I jumped at the chance of an unexpected meal in the middle of nowhere
The large flock on this pasture was protected by four dogs
A typical evening meal on the trail
Delicate mosaic floor at Phellus
Detail of mosaic floor at Phellus
One of many impressive tombs at Phellus
Overlooking Kaş in the evening
Looking back up the escarpment from the centre of Kaş
Inspecting wooden boats down in the harbour
This cistern dates from the 5th century BC
The harbour at Kaş which is easily the most delightful town on the trail
This was the only really windy day in a month
Top spot for a picnic lunch on a rest day
Pansion Artes had a lovely sitting area on the roof with a sweeping view
Even the simplest meal is a delight in Turkey
Food for our furry friends is provided outside a supermarket
Housing for cats in a park
Seating for birds?
The turquoise coast is indeed aptly named
Tombs carved into the solid rock after leaving Kaş
Occasionally the path narrows but is never difficult
It can be very rocky
And the rocks are extremely sharp, which is why boots are a good idea
A typical Lycian tomb is a fairly common sight
Lunch break in the shade at "The Purple House"
Tomb in the centre of Kaleüçağız
Possibly the most delicious Menemen I had on the trail
A rare moment where the trail follows close to the water
A swim here in the early morning was simply delicious